Finishing and pulls left. Phew, this one killed me.
Subscribe to:
Post Comments (Atom)
ABOUT ME
LINKS
Followers
ARCHIVE
- February (1)
- January (1)
- December (1)
- November (3)
- October (1)
- September (2)
- August (2)
- July (3)
- June (3)
- April (1)
- March (2)
- January (2)
- December (1)
- October (2)
- April (1)
- March (3)
- February (3)
- January (4)
- December (2)
- November (1)
- October (2)
- September (1)
- August (2)
- July (2)
- June (4)
- May (2)
- April (2)
- March (4)
- February (3)
- January (4)
- December (1)
- November (4)
- October (9)
- September (3)
- August (9)
- July (2)
13 comments:
beautiful, just beautiful.
oh, stunner!
Me likes. Is that door about an inch thick? or is it an optical illusion.
That unknown = Lael.
Thanks all,
Lael it is 3/4 of an inch thick.
For me keeping veneered doors flat might be the most troublesome part of cabinetmaking. I haven't gone 3/4" thick though. Was that the reason? It looks good ... doesn't look out of place.
Yes I had to keep these flat given their span. It is a big cabinet and the 3/4 inch dimension looks appropriate. Apple Ply is supposed to be much better than the Baltic Birch. Why not explore MDF? Unpleasant, yes but dead flat. I know we were taught that it is evil but wound doors are even more so.
Yeah, I've made the switch to 1/2" MDF for doors but I don't make a habit of telling people. I still get seasonal movement but I ask for trouble by running the grain horizontal on the fronts and vertical on the backs. I might try thicker MDF.
Nicely done. Any reservations now about putting thin commercial veneer over baltic ply? Did you put the walnut veneer crossways to the ply veneer?
FWIW I've used MDF and particle board for doors (not nasty Home Depot PB; the nicer industrial substrate material) and it's marginally lighter than MDF. Either way it's a bit of a pain insetting hardwood blocks for the hinge mortises/screws.
Hey Christopher,
I liked the commercial veneer. It has its limitations and is brittle but the alternative, shop sawing veneer, was not in the budget. Plus I doubt I would have found a plank this straight. In the future I think I will have commercial veneered projects spray finished though.
About cross banding the veneers and sub straight, I was taught to do that but I could not see veneer this thin exerting any influence over the 3/4 inch ply. It didn't in the end, everything remained flat.
Nice work by the way!
MDF is stanky and gives me rashes, but dead flat stuff indeed.
lovin your chocolate sideboard man
and i gotta ask...dovetailed drawers?
Completely agreed re: appeal of commercial veneer. My concern with cross-banding is not that the veneer will affect the ply, but that the ply will mess up the veneer. Everything I've ever made with bare BB ply (simple shop/home stuff) has eventually started to check/crack on the surface. I figure that's because the BB veneer is pretty thick and the exposed side wants to move like lumber. Maybe the thick veneers acquire a lot of tiny cracks when they're peeled of the log, too. Anyhow, that's why I figured it would be better to have the show veneer set crossways to stabilize it.
Not that you really want to have this discussion now...:)
Post a Comment